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Biography

James Edward Haberl February 28, 1958 to April 29, 1999.

For those of you who knew Jim, I hope this biography sends you on a trail of beautiful memories and reminds you of the gift that Jim was to this world.

I guess many people remember where they were when they heard that Jim had been killed. It was Thursday April 29, 1999. Jim was climbing an unnamed 3,230m peak known as Ultima Thule in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park in Alaska with fellow guides Keith Reid and Graeme Taylor. They had discussed the unusually low snowpack and decided to climb a North facing gully which had been visibly pummeled by previous slides. They were laughing and enjoying each other's company and the freedom of the wilderness. Near the top of the gully they could feel a hollow slab and they continued cautiously to a lower angle slope above. Once on the 25 degree slope, Jim set off alone, unroped and without a pack, to break trail in the deep unconsolidated snow. About 15 m up, a slab broke loose above him and carried him slowly past the spur where Keith and Graeme struggled against the blocks of snow. Jim was carried over the 400m cliff bands to the bottom of the face. Keith and Graeme summoned their courage and downclimbed the steep gully, calling to Jim that they were coming. They unburied Jim's body, carefully wrapped him in his sleeping bag and helped to bring him home.

Jim was a professional mountain guide, freelance photojournalist, national best-selling author, motivational speaker and a loving husband, son, brother and friend.

Jim began climbing when he was 16 and traveled to every continent, completing 7 first ascents in North America (Mt. MacArthur SW Ridge, Mt. Huntington West Face, Devil's Thumb West Buttress, Mt Fairweather SE Ridge, Mt. Bertha NW Ridge, Mt. Sabine E face, Tellot Peak N Face) and classic routes from Alaska to Africa.

In 1993, Jim and Dan Culver made the first Canadian ascent of the world's second highest peak , K2, via the Abruzzi Spur. Tragically, Dan was killed on the descent. Both climbers were awarded Canada's Meritorious Service Medal from the Governor General for their outstanding achievement. Grieving the loss of his friend, Jim struggled at home. After an emotional slideshow to a packed house, the seed was planted that Jim should write a book about this extraordinary experience. He went on to form Tantalus Publishing and self published his first book: K2 Dreams and Reality. It was a national best-seller. Three years later he wrote another best-seller Risking Adventure which talks about following the passion in your heart. To promote the books, Jim did more than 100 slideshows across Canada and became a successful motivational speaker, inspiring adults and teenagers alike. The highlight of his speaking career was when he shared the stage with Rick Hansen and Ken Dryden. Jim's photography and writing have appeared in books, magazines and newspapers across North America.

Jim passed his final exam to become an internationally certified full mountain guide (IFMGA, UIAGM) in 1992. He became an examiner for the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) in 1994 and an instructor for the Canadian Avalanche Association in 1995. By 1996, he was the Director of the West Coast Section of the ACMG and worked enthusiastically to support guides through such fundraisers as the Mountaineers' Soiree. His goal was to create a scholarship fund in perpetuity. He was a special mentor to many people. Through his company, North Star Adventures, Jim guided people throughout Western Canada and abroad, quietly sharing his joy of the mountains. He was a guide's guide with the "spouse's seal of approval". With his wife Sue in 1998, he led 8 people from the Alzheimer's Society to the top of Africa's highest peak, Kilimanjaro. This climb has since become an annual fundraiser and has raised an incredible amount of money.

Jim and Sue met in the Queen Charlottes in 1982. They were married in 1997 and built a home in Whistler that same year. They shared a magical time that was a gift to them both. Jim was loved and supported by his wonderful family; his mom and dad (Margaret and Bill), his sister (Susan), and his brothers (Herb, Kevin, Patrick and Mike).

Jim was a highly accomplished man and successful by our society's standards. Yet the Jim who touched so many people's hearts was loved and admired not so much for what he did but more for how he did it. He was sweet, compassionate, strong, competent, respectful, accepting, honest, courageous, gracious and he loved unconditionally. At his memorial service, the outpouring of love was overwhelming. His legacy is how he made people feel and how so many people carry him in their hearts.

 

 

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